Is anyone else here into putting guitars together?
I'm having a blast doing it . Have quite a few I've done this past year . I'm really into telecasters so that's been my favorite ones to do .
One of the greatest things is I love 24.75 and 1 11/16 nut . Warmoth seems to have a great neck , it's a conversion from 25.5 to 24.75. here's a few of the recent ones.

from instagram

I had an Eastman moment . I haven't been playing my Eastman's lately. Really gotten into putting guitars together and on a real telecaster kick. I posted a pic on Dusko's topic about his neck pickup . It got me playing my sb59 , wow what a great guitar . I've shared that I've owned quite a few Gibson Les pauls. I don't see me ever selling the sb59 or even thinking I need a Les Paul That's similar.
So of course more Eastman's started coming out lol!

I go back and forth playing these two and notice that there's a difference in the necks but can't describe it.  Both are ok but just wondering what I'm noticing.  Anyone have/had both or knows the two?

Hola, Fellow Pickers - After the Holidays I am headed for Florida for a couple months - I will be turning down the thermostat in the house for obvious reasons while I am away - also will be leaving at least one guitar (probably a beautiful E40D) at home during that time - does anyone have any thoughts on what the safe (low temp) range is for storage of acoustics is ? Thanks !!

i know, i know: for a few hundred more i should go all "all solid" and, yeah, each instrument --even within models-- is different, but here's one specific choice i'm presented with:

A new old stock AC22CE, solid sitka top, lam rosewood back and side

or
a PCH1-GACE, solid sitka top, lam sapele back and sides

or
a PCH3-GACE, solid sitka top, lam maple back and sides?

all have cut-aways and fishman sonitone electronics.


beyond the tone woods, might i expect better build quality from the ACC than from the PCH's? (The AC222 and PCH3 are comparably priced, the PCH1 is about $150 less). am losing anything tone or quality-wise by going the PCH route?

does tone wood make much of a difference in eastman laminates?

haven't had a chance to play any, but all shops have decent return policies.

experiences? thoughts?

thanks!
noah

I recently bought a 20OM tc but returned it within the week. It played nice alright, sounded really great but overall build quality was pretty poor, joints not really flush, pickguard had totally rough edges, tuning machines were cheap crap, inlay strip on the back wasn't flush, nut badly set. All in all not worth my 2000Euros or was I just unlucky and got a Monday morning mischief?

So I've been playing smaller-bodied guitars for the past four years or so.  After getting an E20OM I decided that was the way of the future and passed my S6 on to a local youth group.  After hitting a local bluegrass festival with friends last month, and realizing I had nothing appropriate, I started to wonder if it might be time to try another larger-bodied guitar. 

Stalking Dave's (as many of us do now) I spotted an E10SS/V last month, but couldn't tell from their pictures just how "reliced" it was.  Eventually someone over on AGF bought this guitar, reviewed as sounding and playing great, but not having the finish they remembered from an earlier model.  Photos were posted (that to me looked amazing) and they sent it back to Dave's.  A few days later it popped back up for sale and was shipped my way.

It made it to Memphis Saturday for its Tuesday delivery, and was dropped off yesterday afternoon.  My wife suggested I wait the 24 hours as noted on the box, but it's been over 50 degrees here for a while so that's not much of an issue.  The IR thermometer gun (money so well spent) confirmed the box, case, and guitar were all at ambient temp.  This might be the lightest Eastman I own.  There is some serious relicing done so I can see how that might have been a turn-off to the previous owner, but this will be a perfect guitar to take out.  No new dings will be noticed on this finish!

It's an E10SS so many of you know how it sounds--much more base (as expected) than an OO or OM but still balanced.  I love the varnish finish, and they've done something to the neck that makes it incredibly fast to slide around.  The slightly narrower nut hasn't caused any issues (another thing I was curious about) and I'm loving the amount of sustain this has on open chords.  It still has that tight-sounding new adi top, but I'm looking forward to seeing how this one ages.  Proof of life attached with a low-quality cell-phone shot from last night.

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I've noticed this before, but I just played the guitar in question today, so...

Anyone else played their Eastman and come away with black fingertips? I know the ebony fingerboard on my E20D has been dyed, as I get black fingertips whenever I play that guitar and when I wipe down the fingerboard afterward, I have black streaks all over the cloth.

I don't  have that issue with my E10D or with my E6D-TC (Alpine). In fact, the E6 has a distinct brown streak running down the length of the fretboard, so I'm fairly sure that one has never been dyed, and although my E10D has a black fretboard, the ebony on that doesn't appear to have been dyed either, at least judging by my fingertips (and I play the E10D the most). My E8D I play less often, so with that one, I'm not sure. I'll have to look at my fingertips the next time I play it for any length of time.

In fairness, given that the E10D is the oldest of my instruments and the E20D the second-newest (at least going by the CoA), it'd possible that the dye has dried on the E10D and is no longer coming off.

So... anyone else notice dye coming off their fretboards when you play the guitar or wipe it down? I wish Eastman would stop doing that. Frankly, I'm one of those who don't care if my ebony fretboard has some distinctive coloration or streaking; in fact, I prefer that to 'just plain black'.

**SOLD**

**no trades please**
Coming from Chapel Hill, NC USA
Willing to ship. Buyer paid shipping charges.
Excellent condition!
Bought new in May from Artisan Guitars in Nashville TN.
Only one mark that I can find on the guitar at all and it's a small scratch, in the gloss only, on the butt side (shown in last pic)
Plays perfectly and sounds amazing! Recent pro set up with .13 strings.

• Neck Material:Mahogany
  
• Fingerboard:Ebony
  
• Fingerboard Radius:12"
  
• Neck Profile:Traditional Even "C"
  
• Nut:Bone 1-3/4"
  
• Fretwire:20 Jescar-FW43080
  
• Scale Length:25.4"
  
• Body Dimensions:16" x 4 1/4"
  
• Bracings:Hand-Carved Scalloped X
  
• Body Top:Solid Engelmann Spruce
  
• Body Back/Sides:Solid Rosewood with Center Strip
  
• Arm Contour:Rosewood
  
• Bridge/Saddle:Ebony/Bone, 2 5/32" Spacing
  
• Rosette:Abalone with Turquoise/Magenta Purfling
  
• Truss Rodual Acting
  
• Binding:Top, Back, Fingerboard, and Headstock
  
• Binding Material:Flamed Maple with Turquoise/Magenta Purfling
  
• Logoearl Headstock
  
• Inlayearl Small Vine
  
• Side Dot Color:Black
  
• Bridge Pins:Ebony w/Abalone Dots
  
• Body Top Finish:Gloss Finish
  
• Back/Side Finish:Gloss Finish
  
• Hardware Color:Gold
  
• Pickguard:Tortoise Shell 
  
• Tuners:Gotoh SG301-20GG
  
• Electronics:LR Baggs Anthem
  
• Strings'Addario XT Phosphor Bronze .013
  
• Action Height:12th fret 3/32" on the bass side and 2/32" on the treble side
  
• Case: Original Hardshell Case
  

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822 with case.jpg

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