Hi folks.

Jeroen from Holland here.
I recently obtained a secondhand SB59. But I wonder if it’s a /v or not. The finish is not bright and shiny. A bit semi-gloss. The hardware is aged (mat, dark, satin). Pickup covers are really aged. So that’s a /v, you might say. But here’s the thing: there is no relicing applied anywhere. No chips or scratches, no buckle rash, no fading finish or colour. Nothing. And the label on the backplate says ‘SB59’. No ‘SB59/v’. Is this relicing something that they don’t do on all /v models?

If you are thinking of buying an Eastman guitar now may be good time. The President-elect campaigned on a platform of higher tariffs — 60% on Chinese imports and 10% elsewhere was proposed. Existing stock shouldn't be affected by this although past experience might point to shops factoring pipe-line price rises into existing stock, so things could change sooner than might be imagined. Also, without the keen competition of cheaper imports guitar prices might rise across the board, albeit more gradually. I mention this as a non-American member of the Eastman guitar community. 

It have a new Eastman mandolin: a MD605 A-style Acoustic-electric Mandolin - Goldburst. I'm a total clumsy amateur at Mandolin, but I hope to get (slowly) get better with (lots of) practice! Wish me luck!

Here's a few pics...

It seems the perceived color of a sunburst depends on the light. Take my E10SS-TC-SB. 

On the website of the local shop, their photo makes the burst appear warm colored:
https://www.stringinstruments.com/p-1826...w-hsc.aspx
However, in the store, the color appeared very different, a cool greenish. 

On the website of Sweetwater, their photo also made the burst appear warm colored. But after buying that guitar, the burst has the same cool color as the one in the local shop. These two photos are the same guitar.

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Hello everyone,
I noticed that on my Eastman E6 OM TC (wonderful), the nuts of the machine heads were moving and moving away from the head. If I try to tighten them, they spin freely. I have the impression that these nuts are simply glued to the head, without being on a screw thread. Do you think like me?
Best regards from France, Europe, and sorry for my english...

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Get 20% Off the following brands:
Eastman

Use code FALL20 at checkout.

They also have 15% off from most other brands.

News of Tom's incoming Larrivee 12 fretter set me thinking about my own.  My post from around the time of its purchase is here:- https://www.eastmanguitarfans.com/Thread...t=larrivee  If anyone else want to chime in about their experience with Larrivees, or their favourite non-Eastmans in general please do share.

Here in Memphis we have an Eastman dealer, Martin Music.
They usually have a good selection of Eastman guitars, at least 20 or 30 in stock.
They have just a few E6OM Models left that are non Thermo cured.
And they have actually offered a discount on the new E6OM guitars that they have had in store for about 2 1/2 years I think.
I’m not gonna post the price, but I it’s quite a bit lower than the original price if $935 when they first got them in.
They have some other guitars, even Taylor’s they have put a discount on.
They are a great store and I’m sure they will offer the discount to any one who comes in or calls. The prices in the store are clearly marked as discounted in their tags.
I would imagine they can’t advertise prices lower than the manufacture recommends as they are an Eastman dealer.
One of them ( E6OM) has that fantastic figured Khaya Mahogany back and sides that Eastman sometime gets.
Really three d looking!!
I just was letting folks know!!
OM size guitars are just not my thing or I would have bought the highly figured one.

Bought a new one few months ago to go along with the E1D (TC Top when Eastman ran out of standard sitka tops).
It's larger than the E1D. An actual 16" lower bout.
Almost too much volume with the open pore finish.
Had plenty enough height to shave the saddle, do a few tweaks & reduce just a little volume.
That open pore finish & light construction.
Very nice.

Hi all

Has anybody got any thoughts on the differences between the original Romeo (hollow and spruce top) v the Romeo California (centre block and maple lam top). 

Interested to see if anybody has insights into what the differences are. They are also about £700 difference in list price - seems a big step between them.

I like the idea of the Romeo being very light, spruce top etc 
The California seems to take it right back to being a slightly different shaped 335.

Thanks in advance folks