Hi,

Still getting used to playing this guitar, such a very different experience than all the dreadnaughts I've played.

Came with Retro Monel strings, not sure how long they had been on there. They were very warm, but the top E string was very dead.  Put Martin phospher bronze and even after almost a month they were still too bright.  Yesterday put on Pearse phospher bronze, much better to my ears. (all .12 guage).

I'm used to manhandling my dreadnaughts to the point of drawing my own blood...can't imagine that happening on this guitar.  It feels much more delicate, and the frequency range that I hear reflects that.  The single note passages and arpeggiated chords are very clear and clean.

What I'm struggling with is that full chords sound a bit harsh and brittle to my ears.  Picks I've used are tortex .88mm, and various dunlop Jazz III's.

Welcome recommendations for continuing to warm up this guitar are welcome.

Just noodling last night on a song I'm working on, recording on phone.

Absolutely like new!!! Pro set up and ready to rock! Yours for $1200 plus shipping.

Neck Material:One Piece Mahogany
Fingerboard:Ebony
Fingerboard Radius:12"
Nut:Bone 1 11/16"
1st Fret String Height:.022"
12th Fret String Height:Bass .078" & Treble .062"
Fretwire:Jescar FW47104
Scale Length:24 3/4"
Body Dimensions:13" x 1 7/8"
Body Top:Solid Flame Maple
Body Back/Sides:1 Piece Mahogany
Truss Rod:Single Acting
Binding:Body and Neck
Binding Material:Ivoroid
Logoearl Headstock
Inlayearl Crowns
Backplates:Black Plastic
Top Coat Finish:Nitrocellulose
Hardware Color:Nickel
Tailpiece:Gotoh GE101A-NI
Bridge:Gotoh GE-104B-NI
Tuners:Gotoh SD90
Knobs:Gold Speed Knobs
Strap Peg:Gotoh EP-A1
Neck Pickup:Seymour Duncan Classic 59
Bridge Pickup:Seymour Duncan Classic 59
Pickup Height:3/32"
Pickup Frame:Cream Plastic
3 Way Switch:Switchcraft
Switch Tip:Switchcraft Ivory
Capacitors:Sprague Orange Drop
Potentiometers:CTS 500K Audio Taper
Output Jack:Switchcraft
Strings'addario NYXL .010 - .046
Action Height:3/32" and 2/32"
Case:Hardshell Case

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UNLIKE many of my guitar playing friends - and probably many of you readers - I’m not facile enough to play just any old neck. It’s got to be just right - or nearly so - for me to get anywhere on it. So, speaking from my own experience only - not yours or the majority’s - I do not like the neck shape of Eastman’s trad series. And the feeling is mutual. Just too flat, so my fretting hand is scrunched into an uncomfortable position. And the bulge on the shoulder or cheek - where the neck meets the fretboard - adds to the discomfort. Then there’s the sharply angled fretboard edge! Any longer than 20 minutes play time and I’m icing my wrist.

It took me a long time to come to the conclusion that comfort with the (guitar’s) neck is vitally important to me. Longer still to figure out what shape I like best. Unfortunately, much too late for me to realize what a good thing I had in my E10SS several years ago (Eastman just don’t make ‘em like that anymore).

But you can’t push the river.

Of course I keep trying.

My E6OM was listed for sale for a week or so. While I was waiting for someone to pounce, I played it daily - in short intervals - and came to really like its sound. And, given that its neck is slightly deeper (more better) than the one on my E6D, I started to consider slight modifications that might lead to increased playability. For one thing it needed a setup, for another, a new nut with increased spacing. For a third, a rounding of the fretboard on the bass side.  

Picked it up yesterday and, well, so far so good. The new nut took me from slightly under 1-1/2” spacing to slightly over, so my big fingers now go where they're supposed to, so there's less strain. The rounded fretboard is a joy too; my thumb-bone is no longer connected to the wood-bone.

On day two I can definitely report improvement in playability. We’ll see how things progress in the long run.

There is a demo Sunburst E20SS listed at A Plus Guitars for $899. - there are a couple minor sounding cosmetic items described in the writeup. I (strongly) suspect there may be some additional wiggle room in the price - worth checking out the website even if not interested in this particular axe as they have a pretty nice selection of Eastmans - just sayin'.....

Dear EGF--

Am wanting a decent, but relatively affordable, acoustic in the not too distant future. Around $1000 would be maximum budget. I'm a fan of rosewood bodies tonally and prefer used whenever possible. Don't know enough about tonal distinctions regarding Adirondack vs Englemann spruce. This 2007 AC720 caught my eye on Reverb and seems like a very good price for the quality build. And also really like the slope shouldered E10 SS- E20ss-varnish. Do not mind saving and waiting if the E10
E20 are that superior comparatively to the AC720/AC822 etc. Any input-- as I've been strictly an electric player since starting to play again--- is most welcome.
Thanks!
Anderson

http://rvrb.io/2007-ac-720-kw0

I have a like new Eastman SB59/V with Case for sale. It has the red varnish finish, and comes with a pro set up. I’ll do free shipping to the continental US for the Eastman Forum members. Feel free to ask questions!
Adam

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My non Eastman cheap blues rock killer guitar, that has survived many thinnings of the herd. A '94 Godin LG. Solid Honduran mahogany body and neck. Beefy '59 profile neck. Seymour Duncan P90's that are just right for single coil P90 quack. Buffed all the finish off down to the sealer coat and carved out area between the pickups so I can dig in more with the pick and pinch harmonics. Back of the neck is worn to bare wood. Surprisingly resonant for a solid body and great tone for blues and rock. Has seen many gigs and jams. Ugly, beat up and a guitar you want to pick up often as it sounds good and feels good. My brother owns several Godin's, and while not the caliber of Eastman's, they seem to be well made guitars for the money.

                    Anyone else have old beaters that you love? 

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Maybe it has been raised before but is there a simpler way to post images here without going the imgur route, or adding an attachment? It’s cumbersome to post an image from a mobile and have it displayed nicely in a post...

This is on page 1 of the current Eastman Guitar website, going after Taylor it seems:

Spinning off of my Thinlines thread, I'm trying to determine which Eastman electric guitar would be best for me.

Here's my situation.  I don't really play live very often, but when I do, my style is more garage rock stuff (bashing out chords at varying tempos).  Mostly, this would be for home recording, and that will likely take on a much different style than either my live acoustic or electric playing.  It could be clean and atmospheric, or it could be noisy and heavily processed.  And while I'm not opposed to mic'ing an amp, I'll mostly likely be running everything directly into my Mac and monitoring with headphones.

More details: I've always owned solid body guitars, and I currently have three in the house (Brian Moore strat, Epi LP, and a Squier Jag).  I've always been enamored with the ES-335 style, but never owned one.  Some people describe them as a best all-purpose guitar b/c they can manage a lot of different tasks.

I think that any Eastman electric guitar (SB, Txxx, or MX) can fulfill my basic live needs.  But is there any advantage for the studio?  Or doesn't it matter, if I'm adding a bunch of effects and then plugging directly into GarageBand?

My preference is leaning towards a used Thinline b/c (1.) I've never owned one, (2.) even if I sell my Brian Moore, I still have two solid body guitars in the house (inc. a LP body style), and (3.) I can get more guitar for my $$$, if I find a good used one (Eastman's SB line is brand new, so I'd have to get a new one).  And then, if this is the plan, do I get a T486 (costs less) or spend the extra $$$ for an MX model (about 1.5-2x price)?

Phew, that's a lot to think about!