Hi, I have made a fair few videos on YouTube playing my Eastman E20-P and E40-00. Recently I was asked about the neck joint.
I couldn't find anything that indicated the bolt on style so assumed dove tail or similar. Does anyone know? 
Also, (I doubt this), but has anyone any experience of neck resets on an Eastman flat top?

I'd be grateful for any info. 

Thanks in advance.

Hello all,

I celebrated my 1 year anniversary on my guitar journey.  However, I am experiencing severe pain on the side of my index finger on my fretting hand. If you hold your hands out, palms down, it is the inside side of the knuckle.  After about 30 minutes it stops hurting and I lose all feeling in the finger from the base of my hand to the tip of my finger. Is this normal like building callouses? Just started feeling it about a week ago. It isn’t from trying to barre chords either. Happens when I am playing scales or just fretting cowboy chords.  It is very uncomfortable and when I lose feeling I lose coordination with the other fingers.

So, I was restringing my 422 (remember I hate this) and got all the strings on and while tuning to pitch I broke the b string.  Problem, I don't have another set of these GHS Phosphorus Bronze's.  I'll order another set but in the meantime would it be a problem if I used the b string from the DR Rare's that I have? Now I know that means that I'd have to order one set of each (the GHS's and DR's) but in the short term would it be a problem?  I was doing so good too!  Thanks   

ps - I could just wait till I got another set in a couple of days

One thing I've always been struck by with guitars is now much difference small measurements make.  1/16th of an inch nut width can feel like a mile.  1/32 of an inch in string spacing can be the difference between incidental fingernail harmonics when chording at the nut.

I recently bought an E10SS/v.  And while I loved it, the action just wasn't quite on par for me compared to my others.  After letting it settle in for a few days I found the nut slots weren't deep enough and the saddle was a bit too high.  Last night I filed probably less than 1/32" further down on each nut slot and 1/32" from the bottom of the saddle.  The difference in playability was immediately and greatly improved.  The setup is now on par with my other two Eastmans and my Martin.  I just still can't believe how much of a difference 1/32 of an inch can make.

Eastman E2D - CD - Cedar top with mahogany back and sides.  Mint condition: very, very small scratches on the pickguard that are barely visible.  This guitar is LOUD! The cedar top  makes it great for fingerpicking yet strumming is amazing: clear, loud, and resonant. Comes with B-Band XOM pickup: undersaddle and underbridge transducers that can be mixed at the soundhole.  

I'm selling because I have 6 Eastmans and this is the one I play the least.  

$345 + $55 shipping or best offer

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I am looking for a used T64. Hit me up if you want to sell. Thanks!

Anyone looking to sell their e20p? I’m looking for one i’m good condition with no work done or needed.
Thanks!

So I have some more money burning a hole in my pocket and I am GASing hard for a new AC. The soundport.... the beveled arm rest....the inlays.... So. Since it is nearly impossible to play these side by side or even see one in person. Sway me...

I love mahogany. I have bought and sold a lot of guitars but always end up keeping the hogs, it’s the midrange that I love. Rosewood was always too dead in the mids so it made the highs too unbalanced for me. Never had a maple though....

I play 98% fingerstyle. Will maple be too bright for me as a hog fan or is the bumped mids enough to balance it out. Will I regret getting the maple and should have just stuck with the tried and true mahogany? I already have two other mahogany and wanted something different but not just for the sake of being different. The only review of the AC622ce on YouTube that even mentions fingerstyle said, paraphrased, it’s great fingerstyle because it’s very clear and the Engelmann top subdues the brightness a bit. Also that is “sits in the mids”. This was an encouraging review but it was only one... and everyone else just mentions the brightness of Maple.

The good news bad news is it looks like the maple isn’t in stock anywhere so I might have a few more weeks to decide. Any guidance is appreciated friends.

Hi all!

Had a quick question for the more informed and keen-eyed members of the forum.  I purchased a E1 OM this past weekend as I had a most unfortunate April Fool's joke of opening the case to my 33 Gibson L-00 to find the bridge had pulled up and ripped right out of the soundboard, so it's been sent off to the luthier for a several month spa date.  Heart fell straight through the floor.  After demoing several Eastman's I was impressed to say the least, especially after looking at the price tag.  At any rate, the piece I ended up purchasing appeared markedly different than the others, most notably the much darker (to my eye), high gloss top.  I'm curious if anyone here could have a look at the pictures I attached (apologies for the poor cell phone pic quality) and give their best guess as to what "variant" I may have, if it's even a variant at all.  My thought was cedar instead of the specced sitka, but I'm not sure why it would have been finished high gloss, when the rest of the models were a satin finish.  Sides/back look to be sapele and the neck looks to be maple.  I reached out to Eastman as well, but any insight here would be appreciated, thanks folks!

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I’m after an e10om LTD. I’ve seen a couple here recently but I wasn’t quick enough. For clarification, this is the E10-OM with a slotted headstock, special inlays, hog B&S, and 1 3/4 nut. See sold listings on Reverb for examples.

I’m the happy owner of an e20OM TC and a PCH3-OM KOA and am looking for a slothead to fill out the OM group. I appreciate any leads.

Thanks,
McCandmore